special culture
“Fashion on the Move #2” Opens at the Palais Galliera in Paris, Revealing the History Between Sports and the Clothes We Wear Everyday
Image: Courtesy of Palais Galliera

“Fashion On The Move #2” opens at the Palais Galliera in Paris on April 26 with the kind of timing that can only be described as impeccable. (The first of the museum’s “On The Move” shows was last year, with the third and final installment happening in 2025.) This historic romp through the relationship between movement, athleticism, and clothing is happening mere months ahead of the 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. (It also opens ahead of another major event bringing fashion and sports together: Vogue World, on June 23.)

Of course, connecting a museum show with the biggest sporting event in the world was by design, but sometimes exhibitions can also unwittingly make a very direct connection with their cultural moment—just think of all the current debate around the suitability of some of the kits designed for this year’s games, and how those pieces can interact with the body to aid a female athlete’s performance (or not, as the case may be). In essence, that aim—enabling the body to move physically, but also to move with the times—underlies the 300 pieces that make up this show. Everything was sourced from the Palais Galliera’s collections, and collectively it talks about the social, cultural, and political forces that have come into play to shape the look and function of the clothing we wear to swim, run, play tennis, or ride a horse. (Personally speaking, I’d need a miracle in garment form to enable me to work up to a gallop—or make a winning forehand volley, for that matter—but I digress.)

75 Thoughts I Had Watching Laura Dern and Liam Hemsworth in Lonely Planet

It is a truth universally acknowledged that any true rom-com fan must be in want of a Laura Dern-gets-her-groove-back vehicle, and that’s exactly what Netflix hath delivered unto us with Lonely Planet, a new film from Erin Brockovich screenwriter Susannah Grant that features Dern as a novelist who heads to Morocco for a writer’s retreat and meets a handsome young man by the name of Liam Hemsworth (or whatever his name is in the movie; I’m going to call him Liam Hemsworth). May-December romance fans, ahoy! Let’s dive in, shall we?

  1. When a movie starts with that little “ding” sound you hear on a plane, you know the protagonist is going places.
  2. Literally.
  3. We’re approaching Marrakech, Morocco!
  4. A refreshing lack of the Global South yellow filter (so far).
  5. Laura Dern! Every time I see her, I hear her scream “ISAIDTHANKYOOOOOOOU” on Big Little Lies in my head.
  6. Sheep! In the road! Not as exciting as a Laura Dern sighting, but still pretty cool.
  7. Oh, no, Laura Dern’s luggage got lost.
  8. Not going to the first-night dinner on a press trip because you’re tired is very relatable, I must say.
  9. Just kidding! Please still invite me on press trips, media powers that be!
  10. Hey, it’s Liam Hemsworth! With a girlfriend! Who is not Laura Dern!
  11. The shirt he’s wearing looks dangerously close to a henley, although upon second examination, I think it’s just a polo.
  12. Ooh, it sounds like Laura Dern is going through a bad divorce. Or maybe has already concluded one? Either way, some man is pissed at her.
  13. Let’s get our Eat Pray Love on, girlfriend!
  14. Actually, maybe we can skip “pray.”
  15. Diana Silvers as a love interest for anyone but Kaitlyn Dever makes me upset.
  16. I do like her chunky highlights, though, I must say.
  17. Wait, is Liam Hemsworth also a writer? Or just weirdly supportive of his GF?
  18. A man who turns down an Ambien because he has a call scheduled? No fun! Dump him!
  19. No clue what this call is about, but I gather it’s important.
  20. Ooh, Liam and Laura are meeting!
  21. Wow, even their names sound good together.
  22. An annoying reporter on a press trip? That’s me!
  23. “I see your face in bed a lot,” followed by the girlfriend reveal? Come on, Liam!
  24. This makes me think of SATC’s Sam Jones lamenting guys who are obsessed with letting you know they have a girlfriend right away. We get it, dude!
  25. My God, this village is picturesque.
  26. Laura Dern was born to casually quote Flaubert in a movie.
  27. Liam has four sisters, so we know he’s a Good Guy.
  28. Sorry, my brand-new puppy was freaking out for the last four minutes, so I missed the context behind Laura and Liam’s meet-cute, but things seem to be progressing apace.
  29. Ah, Liam’s GF Diana Silvers is a big fan of Laura’s novels. Interesting.
  30. Laura, don’t travel anywhere (especially not to a foreign country) if you can’t handle a tiny bit of yelling in the background!
  31. Maybe I’m just smug because I’ve trained myself to write to the din of Real Housewives of Salt Lake City, to be fair.
  32. Ah, cool, Liam’s job is…coal mining, somehow.
  33. “Clean coal,” LOL.
  34. Writer girlinas, I beg of you: Do not bring your extraction-bro boyfriend on a retreat, because he will get correctly roasted by all the socialists.
  35. Oh man, Laura lost a farmhouse in her divorce?
  36. Laura published her first book in college? Zadie Smith vibes!
  37. Laura eviscerating Liam for clearly being a former high school sports bro is so cathartic and hot to me.
  38. I know Liam was saying “How come you can’t finish your book at home?” to Laura, but as someone who spends $40 every other weekday to “work” at my local lesbian all-day cafe, I’m taking it as a personal attack.
  39. Ooh, dramatic confession time just nearly averted!
  40. In the most appropriate, respectful way possible, may I say: Diana Silvers looks really good in a tank top.
  41. So does Liam Hemsworth, for that matter.
  42. “Come find me when you’re in a better mood” is actually a very mature and devastating own to deliver.
  43. Liam is angrily riding a motorcycle through the streets of Marrakech, as one does.
  44. That’s the way, man! Watch local sports! Drink a local beer! Hug local guys! Forget about girls!
  45. If you are in Morocco and (as Laura is right now) turning down anything at all that comes served out of a tagine, you are simply an idiot.
  46. I don’t care if you’re full! Eat a bite of that harira!
  47. I want to lie on a floaty in a Moroccan pool right now.
  48. I’ve never actually been on a writer’s retreat; is this what they’re like?
  49. Liam Hemsworth’s facial hair is perfectly calibrated in this movie, I must say.
  50. Wow, really, Liam? Your bosses in the natural-resource-extraction business aren’t nice?
  51. Oh, he’s an eco-antagonist with a heart of gold who’s actually on the side of the West Virginia coal miner. Cool :/
  52. Laura’s divorced from a sculptor? So Meryl-coded.
  53. This guy really is kind of a dick to his girlfriend Diana Silvers, who is just trying to have fun on her trip.
  54. “You always find a way to ruin the things I’m excited about” is a rough way to feel about your partner! Do better, cishet men.
  55. Good for Diana for breaking up with him!
  56. Laura’s really just listening to their whole breakup through her wall, huh?
  57. Bro, you’re going to “stay out of her way” but not just go home so she can actually enjoy the retreat? I hate this man! Go frack something!
  58. Ooh la la, scandalous Laura/Liam shoulder-kiss scene.
  59. “I could fall for a kid like you”?????? Damn.
  60. Okay, Liam didn’t like that.
  61. Hannah Horvath’s boyfriend called her “kid,” and you didn’t hear her complaining about it, man! Although maybe she should have?
  62. Liam’s leaving to “do some exploring.” Ugh.
  63. He invites Laura!
  64. Parasailing montage!
  65. Oh, that was other people parasailing. Our lovers are just holding hands on the beach.
  66. Sex scene!
  67. A pretty good one, too, if I may be so bold.
  68. Feeding each other olives? Inctedible.
  69. “You know I love an olive.” He already knows this about her?
  70. I really don’t care what happens with this man’s coal deal.
  71. Laura’s going home 🙁
  72. Alone 🙁 🙁
  73. Solo Liam surfside shot 🙁 🙁 🙁
  74. God help me, I love a last-minute rekindling.
  75. I do wish Laura Dern’s actual character Katherine Loewe’s last name were pronounced lo-WAY-vey.
Can We Ever Really Know What’s Going On Between Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck?

If such a thing as a “Bennifer-ologist” exists, I’d like to think I’d be vaguely qualified for the role. I have, after all, written what must number in the dozens (but feels more like hundreds) of articles about Ben Affleck and Jennifer Lopez’s relationship over the past three years—and, not for nothing, I got my hands on a bottle of J.Lo’s signature fragrance Glow before any of my friends did in 2002.

Still, despite all these qualifications, when I heard that the embattled couple had been seen kissing and holding hands during brunch (arguably the most significant meal of heterosexual courtship) at the Beverly Hills Hotel’s Polo Lounge amid their recently announced divorce, I had to admit it…I was stumped. Will I, or anyone else, ever figure these two out?

To be fair, there’s been a lot of Bennifer drama to keep up with this summer, from Lopez getting her Nancy Meyers movie on in the Hamptons, to Affleck’s sad-hot-single-dad faux-hawk, to Lopez queening out with fellow Affleck ex Jennifer Garner (and Affleck bestie Matt Damon, for that matter). And honestly, as difficult as it can be to stay on top it all, I’m sort of obsessed with the lack of narrative coherence. Who says you can’t make out after a divorce? And, for that matter, why not seat your kids separately at the Polo Lounge so you can rekindle the flame? (To be clear, I actually am in support of this; what teen wants to sit with their parents at brunch, even if their parents happen to be the stars of Gigli?)

People magazine claims that the Affleck-Lopez divorce is still moving forward, and at the risk of implying that basically all celebrity gossip is essentially fake…I have to wonder if any of us would really know if the divorce weren’t moving forward, “exclusive source” be damned. Whether together or apart, Affleck and Lopez have been conducting their love lives in public for over two decades now, and I feel like they’re playing three-dimensional chess. Is it time to consider the possibility that we know only what these two crafty celebrity innovators want us to? Or were they simply so overcome with lust for one another that they had no choice but to get the round-three relationship rumors flying? Either way, I’m seated.

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Remarkably, Ronan had already been acting for four years when she broke out at the age of 13, playing the precocious and reckless child whose actions have devastating consequences on the couple (Keira Knightley and James McAvoy) at the heart of Joe Wright’s heartbreaking, decades-spanning tale of lost love and crippling regret. It’s a mind-bogglingly delicate and self-assured performance that led to a best-supporting-actress Oscar nod—and fast-tracked Ronan onto the A-list.

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15 Sadcore Albums to Get You Through the Fall

With this scorching summer nearing its end and fall’s shortening days and cooling breezes following closely behind, musical playlists will likewise turn from sweaty dance hits and catchy pop anthems to moodier, more autumnal fare. Forget “sad-girl summer”—fall is the perfect seasonal backdrop for sadcore music.

Sadcore was first coined in the 1980s to describe the young musicians who turned away from the aggressive sounds of punk and hardcore to embrace melancholic lyrics, bitter-sweet melodies, and more textured and ethereal atmospherics. Labels like 4AD, Postcard Records, Sarah Records, Creation Records, K Records, and others were often associated with this style. Although sadcore was usually characterized by a particular guitar-based aesthetic, the term later became a catch-all encompassing various sub-genres and sub-scenes including dream pop, twee pop, shoegaze, folktronica, slowcore, chillwave, ambient pop, and chamber pop. What all of these styles had in common was an emotive sound best suited for introspective headphone-listening, and that encouraged daydreaming or nostalgic memorializing, dancing alone in the dark or tarrying in bed.

Since 2020, sadcore playlists and mixtapes have gained massive popularity among Generation Z, having exploded on platforms and sites like Spotify and Youtube. Many are intricately curated and include both professional songs and tracks created by anonymous bedsit musicians, or others remixed with tags like “slowed and reverbed” (also known as daycore), “super slowed,” and “corecore,” or songs looped for hours for maximum hypnotic effect.

This year has seen a range of new and established musicians releasing poignant works that celebrate the sad melodies of life. Here, Vogue has assembled a list of some of the best or most promising of these albums. Together, their oneiric and forlorn sounds offer the perfect weepy soundtrack for the autumn days ahead of us.

Dj Salinger, Voyage Voyage Voyage

A Toast to Only Drinking When the Vibes Are Right

I was in Ibiza recently, at a beach restaurant, in front of the sort of turquoise seawater views that are borderline painful to look at. You know when you’re having such a good time that you almost feel angry? Because it’s like, why can’t I experience this every second of my life? Yeah, it was basically like that. And I thought to myself, I would love a cocktail right now. So I ordered exactly one spicy mango margarita. And it was delicious. Just the right amount of tart sweetness, with a little jalapeño kick. I felt so smug in that moment that I could have simply… floated out of my chair. Just floated away from all the smugness.

The aforementioned type of drinking is what a friend of mine recently described as “vibes-based drinking.” As in, only drinking when the vibes are just right. As in, only drinking when the act might further enhance your already good time (as opposed to it being the main event). Essentially, not drinking for the sake of it, and not very often. Only drinking when the stars align, for example when in Ibiza at a beach-front restaurant. Or at a really fun Halloween party. Or on New Year’s Eve at midnight when someone passes you a flute of champagne. Obviously, vibes-based drinking isn’t advisable if you have a history of problematic drinking and need to abstain. But if you’re going to drink, then why not do so in a sort of mindful way, rather than knocking it back for no discernible reason?

The type of drinking I engaged in during my teens and early to mid-20s was probably the opposite of vibes-based drinking. I’d drink if I was tired after work, or if I was excited about something, or if I had nothing else to do at the weekend. I’d drink if I felt socially anxious on nights out—which was always—or if I wanted something interesting to happen, or if I was bored. The alcohol would be the activity, and the environment would exist to facilitate that activity (would I really have sat in a dank bar in Deptford until closing time otherwise?) In the latter half of my 20s, I moved away from drinking like this. By that time, hangovers had ceased to be “not that bad, actually”, and every corner of my life improved when I drastically cut down. Although you don’t need me to tell you that—everyone seems to be sober or sober-ish now, and everyone’s reaping the benefits.

These days, I drink about once every couple of months, and only when the occasion truly calls for it (I had a crisp pint in Croatia recently and it was like sipping on the sun, in a good way). But vibes-based drinking is clearly not a new invention—a lot of people drink that way naturally. It’s what some people might call “sober adjacent”—a slightly strange term used to describe those who aren’t fully teetotal, but are more likely than not to go “dry” on a night out. Another term you might have seen is “mindful drinking”, which is basically drinking in ways that are reasonable (mindful drinking expert Derek Brown swears by “the four Cs” when it comes to reasonable drinking: celebration, conviviality, consecration, and connoisseurship). Again, if you’ve got a history of alcohol issues, “reasonable” will be difficult to measure. But if you’re able to live a mostly sober lifestyle then “reasonable” can be a good rule of thumb.

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