special culture

Archives 2023

Charli XCX Swaps Pop Anthems for Hollywood Glitz

Charli XCX, having transformed the cultural mood in her slime-green, that-bitch persona, and revealing she’ll be inaugurating London Fashion Week with an H&M-backed rave, is now taking her Parliaments and heading to Hollywood. She will be part of the ensemble in Gregg Araki’s addition to the growing May-December repertoire, I Want Your Sex.

Scripted by Vogue columnist Karley Sciortino and named after George Michael’s 1987 chart-topping hit, the narrative revolves around Olivia Wilde’s character, Erika Tracy, an imagined artist possessing the cultural weight of Marina Abramović. She begins a relationship with her significantly younger employee, Elliot (Cooper Hoffman). (If you ponder why Cooper’s name seems familiar, he portrayed Gary Valentine alongside Alana Haim in Licorice Pizza—and, indeed, he is Philip Seymour Hoffman’s offspring.) Initially, Elliot is ecstatic to be Erika’s “gentle lover with a heart of gold,” but their liaison soon drifts into Adrian Lyne territory as “Erika leads him on a journey more profound than he could ever envision, delving into a realm of sex, obsession, power, betrayal, and murder.” Baby, you’ve been so unkind, indeed. There’s still no word regarding Charli’s character role, but I hope she gets to don a bodysuit as chic as Kathy Jeung’s in George’s softcore ’80s music video.

But it’s Faces of Death that will serve as Charli’s official film debut with co-stars Barbie Ferreira, Dacre Montgomery, and Josie Totah. Directed by How to Blow Up a Pipeline’s Daniel Goldhaber, the work is inspired by the highly contentious 1978 shockumentary sharing the same name, which begins with an alleged pathologist, Dr. Francis B. Gross (Michael Carr), presenting a sequence of clips showcasing gruesome fatalities—some fabricated, some genuine. “For the first time in movie history, the utmost fear of all humanity will be vividly exposed,” declared the trailer. “Now, a cinematic piece dares to take you beyond the boundary of the living.” Naturally, it became a viral sensation, with millions of VHS copies distributed nationwide, cementing its status as the landmark film of the decade’s “video nasty” trend. Thankfully, Goldhaber has no intention of recreating the mondo movie (whose horridly graphic visuals resulted in it being banned in numerous countries, including the UK). Instead, he adopts a meta perspective, with his story trailing a content moderator for a YouTube-like platform who unearths a group recreating scenes from the ’70s classic for their audience.

Curiously, Charli personally contacted Goldhaber about a part in the film, and he isn’t the sole writer-director she has approached for a partnership in recent months. Just earlier this (Brat) summer, she ventured to Poland to film another project she is reportedly co-writing with Slave Play‘s Jeremy O Harris. Luckily, she’s already equipped with enough movie-star sunglasses to navigate at least a dozen paparazzi-laden press junkets.

Jordan Casteel Unveils Eclectic Art Fusion: Vibrant Portraits Meet Whimsical Furniture

Para la artista Jordan Casteel y la diseñadora de moda Batsheva Hay, fue amor a primera vista. Mientras sus esposos, ambos fotógrafos, habían sido cercanos durante años, las dos mujeres entablaron una amistad propia durante los primeros días de la pandemia, cuando la pintora nacida en Denver y radicada en Nueva York estaba buscando su vestido de novia. “Sabía que no quería usar un vestido blanco. Quería ponerme algo divertido, juguetón y representativo de mí,” dice Casteel. Después de que el ahora esposo de la artista, David Schulze, recomendara a Hay, conocida por sus vaporosos vestidos estampados, la diseñadora terminó haciendo dos vestidos de novia para Casteel: uno de tela de estampado de cera azul y amarillo y el otro de moiré rojo.

“Batsheva y yo estamos muy interesadas en el color y el patrón y en cómo nuestro trabajo puede activar espacios y cuerpos. Hay una auténtica jovialidad en su ropa que también me interesa en el contexto de mi obra,” menciona Casteel. Conocida por retratos y pinturas que Hay describe como “honestos, brillantes e interesantes,” Casteel tiene una habilidad especial para plasmar patrones y texturas—piensa en abrigos de piel de cordero con empaste grueso y botas de goma irisadas que casi puedes oír chirriar. Al igual que Hay, la artista se deleita en combinaciones de colores inesperadas, a menudo sustituyendo los tonos naturales de piel de sus modelos con matices de rojo, verde y púrpura.

Batsheva Hay y Jordan Casteel en la apertura de “Jordan Casteel: Campo de visión.”

Cortesía de Hill Art Foundation. Foto: Liz Ligon

A lo largo de los años, la práctica de Casteel se ha expandido para abarcar escenas urbanas, paisajes y bodegones, reflejando su mudanza de Harlem al norte del estado de Nueva York en 2021, aunque independientemente del tema, su brillante creación permanece increíblemente constante. Hasta el 23 de noviembre, la Hill Art Foundation en Chelsea presenta “Jordan Casteel: Campo de visión,” una exposición individual con 25 obras que abarcan la última década de su carrera. Curada por Lauren Haynes, jefa de curaduría en Governors Island Arts y vicepresidenta de artes y cultura en el Trust for Governors Island en la ciudad de Nueva York, la muestra incluye préstamos importantes junto con cuatro retratos monumentales de la colección de J. Tomilson Hill, fundador de la organización sin fines de lucro. (Dos de estos retratos son regalos prometidos al Museo Metropolitano de Arte y al Museo Solomon R. Guggenheim.)

Aunque el título de la exposición, “Campo de visión,” se refiere al proceso de Casteel de fotografiar a sus modelos antes de pintarlos, también establece el tono para lo que es, posiblemente, la exposición más personal de la artista hasta la fecha. “Mi mamá me envió un mensaje diciendo, ‘No sé tú, pero creo que esta es tu mejor muestra hasta ahora.’ Hay un elemento de eso con lo que estoy completamente de acuerdo,” dice Casteel. “Esta muestra se siente tan de mí, y se relaciona con la forma en que interactúo con mi trabajo a diario. Es el núcleo de cómo me siento al hacer estas pinturas y al experimentarlas cuando están todas juntas. Es la encarnación completa de mí en la práctica.”

Naomi Campbell: The Iconic Journey Through A Fashion Revolution

“It wasn’t centered on me. It focused on the garments.” A remark by Naomi Campbell, which—when you consider the topic of the V&A’s newest fashion display—doesn’t exactly align. In past times, the South Kensington museum has achieved unprecedented success with retrospectives devoted to iconic designers (consider 2023/2024’s “Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” and 2019’s “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams”), yet it has never before devoted an exhibit to a single model, one whose rapid teenage triumph—and whose image-making is so legendary—she is simply referenced by her first name.

“Naomi: In Fashion” narrates the incredible 40-year journey of the Streatham-born runway phenomenon, who initially spent her time dancing in music videos for Bob Marley and Culture Club before being discovered in Covent Garden in 1985 at age 15 by scout Beth Boldt. Since her inaugural cover shoot in 1987 (photographed by Patrick Demarchelier; the outfit, lavishly decorated gold and turquoise Chanel Haute Couture crafted by Karl Lagerfeld), Campbell has appeared on the cover of Vogue US and British Vogue multiple times. In August 1988, she became the first Black woman captured for the cover of Vogue France; she signified the supermodel’s towering era on the 1991 cover of Time (accompanied by the headline “Beauty and the Bucks”), and in 1997 became the pioneering Black model to inaugurate a Prada show.

“I can’t fathom unveiling my retrospective anywhere aside from London—this is where I was born, brought up, and discovered—but admittedly, it is somewhat nerve-wracking to perceive it as a homecoming,” Campbell penned in the March 2024 issue of British Vogue.

“It’s tough to envision any other model who justifies their own exclusive museum exhibit,” comments Sonnet Stanfill, senior curator, fashion, at the V&A, during an exhibition preview, where we’re welcomed in the ground-floor gallery by an exuberant montage of Campbell’s runway appearances. Assembled from the supermodel’s own vast fashion collection, personal mementos (including one of her initial Concorde tickets, and her profile pages in Elite’s 1997 model directory book), and photography across decades, Stanfill has crafted a multi-sensory exploration through the milestones of a unique career—one that involved Campbell forging enduring partnerships with designers such as Azzedine Alaïa, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Karl Lagerfeld, photographers from Steven Meisel to Peter Lindbergh, and transitioning after a notable George Michael music video from a supermodel with a bold “S” into a social activist and philanthropist, who connected with Nelson Mandela and co-founded the Black Girls Coalition in 1989, alongside Bethann Hardison and Iman. As Campbell previously shared with Vogue: “Standing before my wardrobe is a humbling instance; vivid memories of past dialogues with legendary designers who ranked among my dearest friends and collaborators return.”

From The Agency and Senna to, Well, the Parade, Here Are 5 Things to Stream This Thanksgiving Break
How Competitors Revolutionized My Dating Game

No misunderstanding: Rutshire isn’t exactly renowned for triumphant romantic endeavors. Nearly everyone is involved in infidelity, or at least desiring to be. Furthermore, there are considerable generational differences that appear quite odd from a contemporary perspective—indeed, I’m referring to the unconventional connection between youthful 20-year-old Taggie O’Hara (Bella Maclean) and Rupert, otherwise known as the 40-year-old gentleman her mother has a soft spot for and with whom her father shares a friendship.

The Darcy Days Are Over: See Renée Zellweger Fall for Leo Woodall in the First Trailer for Bridget Jones: Mad About the Boy
21 Enchantingly Cozy Films to Warm Up Your Autumn

The autumn season has more or less arrived, and while some welcome this time with activities like apple-picking, hot beverages, and various other quintessential aspects of #ChristianGirlAutumn, others opt to enjoy it just as we did the summer: relaxing on the couch, repeatedly watching the cozy films we adore. Whether you desire to have your belief in romance rekindled by Harrison Ford or you need some humor from Robin Williams that will surely bring tears, our lineup presents the essential movies of fall.

Open your windows for that refreshing, chilly air and prepare the teapot, because presented below are 20 top autumn films—from tales explicitly set in this season, to movies that merely capture or symbolize autumn in some manner—to accompany you until December.

Autumn in New York (2000)

Honestly…how could this not be on the list? The title alone demands it, and combined with Winona Ryder’s tear-inducing narrative, it features so many things that I closely relate to autumn: Central Park, charming museums, and a woman adorned as Emily Dickinson. We adore witnessing it (and shedding tears over it)! —Emma Specter

Coco (2017)

The Shadows of Depression

No one remains unaffected by mental health disturbances. Yet, when you or a loved one encounters struggles, it frequently feels as though you’re isolated in obscurity, seeking illumination. In recognition of World Mental Health Day, we are sharing a compilation of essays, commencing today and extending through the weekend, that explore this subject from a personal viewpoint. We hope these pieces provide understanding into the numerous ways individuals face challenges, and how they can emerge from them with respect and elegance.

My dental specialist lately informed me that my gums were in good condition. An observation unremarkable to most, yet for me, it induced a wave of relief and happiness. Exiting her clinic, I felt the urge to message someone about her comments before realizing that even my closest companions would likely just feign interest in my gums.

A dentist informed me nine years prior, when I was 27, that the bone levels on the lower left side of my mouth had already decreased to those normal for a 50-year-old, owing to persistent inflammation and disease. Apparently, “lifestyle factors” were to be blamed. The lifestyle in mention? It involved taking sick leave from my office position, lying on a mattress on the floor of my rented room in south east London (a flatpack bed frame remained in its unopened box in the corner) for extended periods, occasionally rising to smoke a poorly crafted roll-up cigarette or, when things were dire, to consume my housemate’s wine from the fridge straight out of the bottle before collapsing back into the same dismal spot where I’d spent the preceding week. Indeed, I failed to brush my teeth frequently enough. I also became severely deficient in vitamin D. It remains on my medical records. Severe depression, gender identity issues, vitamin D deficiency. As the TikTok kids put it, it’s giving vampire vibes.

To have weathered a significant depression is to be eternally shadowed by it. Despite being many years beyond the last episode, a single unfortunate day, perhaps due to hormones or low spirits during the coldest part of January, suffices to spark fear of being pulled back by my heels. Depression exposes one’s own mind as a double agent, a foe within. How do you ever entirely reconcile with it again? Similar to a marriage facing betrayal, trust might never be fully restored. Would I withstand another cycle?

A Heartfelt Dilemma: Navigating a Sister’s Struggle with Mental Illness

No individual remains unaffected by concerns of mental well-being. Yet, when you or a cherished person is navigating such challenges, it frequently seems as though you’re isolated in obscurity, seeking illumination. In recognition of World Mental Health Day, we are unveiling a collection of narratives, initiating today and continuing through the weekend, addressing this subject from a personal perspective. We aspire that these stories provide a bit of understanding into the diverse manners in which individuals grapple, and how they can emerge on the other side with pride and elegance.

I am seated alone on the sofa, enveloped by a heavy blanket gifted by my husband’s grandmother. The living area is dim save for the luminescence from the television. An installment of X-Files is softly playing.

My sister has been residing with us for a week at this point.

Possibly she turns to me in times of distress because I am her senior. Perhaps it’s her comfort in being her authentic self when she’s with me. I don’t judge her for extended periods of sleep. I don’t try to explain away her suspicions or confront the illusions that arise from her schizoaffective condition and substance usage. Alternatively, it might be that my spare room is considerably more comfortable than the accommodation she experienced in mental health or rehabilitation facilities.

The bottoms of her sleepwear were tucked beneath her feet when she ambled to bed earlier. Yet, I suspect she remains awake. Even with a 15-foot distance and a wall dividing us, I can perceive her sleeplessness as I do my own. The medication she employs to soothe her thoughts is not always effective. (Roughly one-third of individuals diagnosed with a significant depressive disorder are identified as treatment-resistant, characterized in guidelines provided by Johns Hopkins as “persistent depression symptoms in individuals who have experimented with various antidepressants or antidepressant classes.”)

I collect a small tumbler of tap water and quietly approach the hallway’s end. I gently knock on the door. I do not await a reply before carefully nudging the door open, an embodiment of my elder sibling role, forever taking the reins and asserting that I possess the means to resolve matters.

Republican Stance on IVF: Actions Speak Louder Than Words

El pasado mes, el ex presidente y candidato republicano para 2024, Donald Trump, sorprendió a muchos al abogar por la cobertura universal del tratamiento de FIV, aunque sin un plan específico. Este movimiento probablemente formó parte de un intento de atraer a votantes indecisos que se sintieron incómodos por la anulación de parte de la Corte Suprema de Roe v. Wade en 2022.

Puede parecer sorprendente ver a Trump incluso asociarse vagamente con la iniciativa de ayudar a familias con dificultades para concebir. (Trump ha proclamado con orgullo su logro de instalar a los jueces de la Corte Suprema que formaron la mayoría en la decisión que anuló Roe; un cambio con numerosas repercusiones, no solo respecto al aborto sino también en tratamientos de fertilidad como la FIV). Permítanme asegurarles que su prioridad no fue, ni nunca ha sido, la salud, seguridad o agencia reproductiva de las mujeres. “Queremos más bebés, para decirlo amablemente”, señaló Trump en un evento en Michigan en agosto.

Si buscas evidencias más concretas de la postura del Partido Republicano sobre las libertades reproductivas, observa al Senado, donde los republicanos bloquearon un proyecto de ley demócrata para asegurar un derecho nacional a los tratamientos de FIV el martes. Esta tentativa marca el segundo intento de los demócratas del Senado por aprobar la ley, conocida como la Ley del Derecho a la FIV, patrocinada por la senadora de Illinois Tammy Duckworth (quien utilizó el tratamiento de fertilidad para concebir a sus hijos). Los senadores republicanos emplearon su propia justificación para su postura: “Esto es simplemente un intento de los demócratas de crear un tema político donde no lo hay”, manifestó el senador de Dakota del Sur John Thune a los periodistas el martes.

Intenta decirle eso a las muchas personas cuya esperanza de tener un hijo a través de la FIV se ha visto frustrada por el impacto negativo de la revocación de Roe. Ver a los republicanos intentar ganar puntos en el discurso sobre la FIV mientras aprueban cada vez más leyes que crean obstáculos médicos me recuerda esa cita de Maya Angelou: “Cuando alguien te muestra quién es, créelo la primera vez”. Quizás sea hora de que todos creamos quiénes nos han mostrado ser los líderes del GOP como Trump, y enfoquemos nuestra energía en elegir a políticos que realmente apoyen a la FIV como la parte crucial de la autonomía reproductiva integral que objetivamente es.